Z end of Z road

I bet you thought this post would be all about zucchini! While that idea did cross my mind, I quickly dismissed the green squash because I already dedicated an entire post to zucchini in July 2011 (scroll through my archives and check it out if you want to). So, then tapping into my Italian side, I thought about…. no, wait, maybe dreamed about…. zabaglione (egg yolks and Marsala wine that have been whipped with sugar into a frothy delight), zeppole (decadent fried dough), and ziti (fun, quill-shaped pasta). Given that these delicacies are too predictable, I delved further into my culinary repertoire and pulled out za’atar.

Za’atar (pronounced just like it sounds, “zah-tar”) is a name that describes two items: the Middle Eastern herb za’atar and a spice blend that includes the herb. The August/September 2010 issue of Fine Cooking magazine suggests that the herb, crowned “king of herbs,” is a palatable trifecta of savory, oregano, and thyme. While the herb can be used alone, it is rarely exported in its pure form from its countries of origin, and therefore would be an extremely difficult find here in the United States. However, blends of spices that include the royal herb are more commonplace, and usually are the za’atar of reference in a given recipe.

Za’atar spice blends vary in composition, essentially speaking their own colloquial dialects. In addition to the dried za’atar herb, all za’atar spice blends include ground sesame seeds and dried sumac. (No, not poison sumac; the innocuous herb sumac.) From there, only the binomial theory can determine the assumingly limitless possibilities of herbs and spices that can be combined under the name za’atar. Whatever exotic herbs or spices are indigenous to the area, they’re likely to co-star alongside the ruler of herbs in the potent culinary blend.

So how would you cook with za’atar (here, I am alluding to the spice blend)? Since za’atar blends differ in taste and sometimes color, it’s best to purchase a few varieties at your local ethnic market and decide which blend(s) you prefer; but, since a lemony, floral, earthen-spice essence defines them all, any za’atar blend will suffice in a recipe that calls for such ingredient. Of course, since za’atar has its roots in Middle Eastern cuisines, the spice complements many dishes from this region of the world, including tangy yogurt dips and sauces, stewed or grilled lamb, legume-based soups, eggplant dishes, and grilled flatbreads or pitas. Za’atar is also a delicious spice rub or marinade component for chicken or pork, and even lends a wonderful aroma to any fish, from salmon to tilapia to hake.